Abstract: Due to the development of mathematics, physics, mechanical engineering, electronics, especially microelectronics, computer network technology and data processing technology, textile testing theory and technology have made great progress, and the automation level and testing of textile testing instruments The combination of functions and the degree of compounding have been greatly improved. With the development of the market economy and the advancement of the global economic integration process, the quality inspection of textile materials will gradually improve the implementation of the third-party objective notarization inspection system, and will increase the number of new inspection projects gradually, and gradually establish product quality. The law is a benchmark, a quality assurance system that combines standards and contract quality commitments.

0 preface

        Since the 1734 Bradford International Textile Conference in the UK has developed a series of inspection requirements, methods and standards for textile fibers, yarns and fabrics, textile testing technology and textile instruments have experienced many development times. With the development of scientific theories such as mathematics (especially mathematical statistics), physics, mechanical engineering, electronics (especially sensor detection and conversion technology) for a century, it has laid a solid foundation for the development of textile detection theory and technology. Especially since the 1980s, microelectronics, computer science and data processing technology, computer network technology, etc. have made textile testing technology comprehensive in the development of indicators, the level of automation of testing, the comprehensive and complex degree of testing functions, testing instruments, light, machine, Electrical, magnetic, pneumatic, computer integration and other aspects have made great progress. With the advancement of the global market economy integration process, a large number of new and new functional textile raw materials and textile products have emerged, the circulation of textile raw materials and textile products has been accelerated and the delivery time has been shortened, and the automation of textile processing equipment, electrical automation and computer connection The level has been greatly improved, which is the rapid feedback to adapt to textile production and operation, the quality of textile products, the emergence of new functions, the social awareness of textiles and environmental safety, and the legal adoption and implementation of countries to protect consumer rights. The introduction of new trade rules between countries has played a certain role, which has affected the textile detection principle and technology in large-capacity detection, rapid detection, new indicator provision, rapid data processing, test results print display, correlation analysis of test results, Feedback and applications are rapidly evolving. However, it is these reasons that are causing more significant changes and developments in the principles and technologies of textile testing, the performance, use and certain functions of textile testing instruments.

1 Development history of textile testing technology

       The principle of textile testing, from simple to complex, from single to composite, has developed into a pioneer in absorbing hundreds of rivers and transforming traditional industries with modern high technology.

        Before the 1940s, most of the textile inspections were manual mechanical. Only a small amount of electricity was used in some parts (oven heating, very small amount of raw material transmission, etc. Even so, the oven thermostat control also uses contact mercury thermometers, micro motor pulleys and Gear-driven structure) and a small number of optical principles (mechanical optical microscopy for fiber fineness, maturity, etc.).

        From the 1940s to the 1970s, textile testing technology has made a lot of progress in the detection principle, the principle of fiber shielding and reflection of visible light, the principle of visible RGB color spectroscopy of fiber, and the sensing principle of fiber dielectric coefficient to capacitive field. The principle of fiber straightening, displacement and resonance in electrostatic field, the principle of fiber permeability in strong gradient magnetic field, the law of gas-liquid medium flowing in fiber aggregate and the law of jet, X-ray reflection on microcrystal and The principle of interference is applied to textile detection technology. At the same time, the advancement and application of microelectronic technology and electronic circuit technology such as mathematical differential circuit, mathematical integral circuit and mathematical logarithmic conversion circuit have significantly promoted the rapid automatic calculation level of detection technology.

        The principle of absorption and reflection of textile materials on the ultraviolet spectrum from the 1980s to the 1990s, the principle of absorption and resonance of near-infrared and mid-infrared absorption, the principle of absorption and resonance of electromagnetic waves in different modes of microwave resonators, and the principle of resonance absorption of fibers by acoustic vibration. The principle of sound velocity transmission in fiber, the principle of heat conduction in fiber, the principle of steam and liquid water transfer in fiber, the principle of water evaporation on fiber surface, the principle of electric conduction of dry and wet fiber, the principle of distribution of ionic charge in liquid on fiber surface The various groups generated by chemical reactions, the electrical properties of ions and other properties on the principle of electricity and magnetic action, the principle of electrostatic field distribution and leakage on textiles are also applied to textile testing technology; Data processing technology, especially the ever-increasing high-speed data processing and the application of a large number of mature computing software, have greatly promoted the rapid advancement of textile testing technology. It is particularly important that these detection principles and new detection technologies have created a new era of rapid, indirect, and non-destructive testing of textiles, thereby promoting the birth of large-capacity, rapid, and comprehensive inspection instruments. Therefore, we must more consciously apply the newly developed detection principle and detection technology to promote the advancement of textile testing technology and textile testing equipment.

2 Textile material quality inspection work will gradually improve the implementation of third-party objective notarization inspection system

        The original four-level inspection system is the national quality supervision and inspection center for textile fibers and textiles, the quality supervision and inspection center of each province, city and autonomous region, the quality inspection and inspection center of each county (city) level, the quality inspection of fiber production and processing enterprises and textile enterprises. The department is only equipped with the relevant test items specified by the national assessment standards, and carries out the test items stipulated by the national product standards. The supervision and inspection centers at all levels are only responsible for the sampling, inspection, assessment and certification of the products produced by the enterprise, and the production quality is stable. The product is given a certain period of exemption from inspection. This is actually a pattern formed under the conditions of the planned economy transition to a market economy.

         After China's accession to the World Trade Organization (WT0), under the new market economy rules, the functions of the four-level inspection system will inevitably change accordingly. The supervisory and inspection centers at all levels, in addition to undertaking government supervision and inspection commissions, are mainly used as third-party products produced by various enterprises (including products exported from abroad to China) or notarized according to product standards, or by contract between purchase and sales parties. The required quality requirements are notarized and judged to meet the acceptance criteria. Therefore, the inspection items and instruments of the supervision and inspection centers at all levels will be greatly increased to accommodate the continuous emergence and continuous updating of textile fibers and new textile products. The method standards adopted cannot be limited to China's national standards. As for the laboratory of textile fiber production and processing enterprises, its functions will be changed beyond the inspection content of product quality standards, and the focus will be changed to the information department of production control and management. It undertakes comprehensive monitoring and quality classification of the quality of semi-finished products in the whole process of production, especially in the production, so that qualified products can be produced quickly, stably, economically and effectively. Therefore, the content, functions and requirements of textile fiber production enterprises and textile enterprise laboratories will be fully updated with the purpose of inspection and concept changes. The configuration of the inspection instrument will actively seek fast, online and comprehensive inspection equipment according to the needs of the company's production, in order to achieve rapid response to production management.

3 The rapid development and large capacity of textile testing technology is the development trend

          The number of textile material quality inspections will gradually increase. Therefore, the rapid, large-capacity and on-line inspection of textile inspection technology will inevitably become a development trend.

          Historically, it has long been recognized that the performance of textile fibers and textile midstream products is large, and the number of samples for sampling inspection is highly debated. However, due to the slow test speed in the history, the instrument detection capacity is small, and most of them are still destructive tests, which cannot meet the requirements of high-scale sampling. With the adoption of emerging science and technology, textile testing principles and textile testing technology have made great strides, including fiber, yarn, fabric and final products, except for individual items (such as tensile strength at break, tensile elongation at break, number of wear, and In addition to the ball, hook and other items), a large number of testing projects use non-destructive testing principles and methods. In some countries in the world, cotton was tested on a package-by-package inspection in the late 1980s and a certificate of inspection was given. In the mid-1990s, wool was tested on a package-by-package basis and inspection certificates were given on a package-by-package basis. Some chemical fiber filament enterprises began in the early 1990s. Online inspection, ordering, etc., and sorting, packaging, storage and transportation on the assembly line. In the mid-1990s, the dyeing hue and dyeing depth of the printing and dyeing fabrics of some dyeing and finishing enterprises were tested on the dyeing machine, automatically graded and warned for repair, in addition to the autoleveling, yarn clearing device and sizing machine of the spinning equipment. Moisture regain, sizing rate detection and adjustment device, etc. This has created a precedent for comprehensive inspection from the substantive meaning. In particular, in the future, the continued development of many varieties and small batches of textile products will increasingly require more acute requirements. A comprehensive inspection of the quality of textile products (at least most of which does not carry out sampling inspections) will be an irreversible trend. In this case, textile testing technology not only needs extensive development in non-direct testing (indirect detection) technology, but also greatly improves the stability of the test (not in the constant temperature and humidity experimental center), and large-capacity rapid inspection technology. The development of online detection technology is imminent, and it also provides a relatively reliable objective evaluation of many projects and content whose own indicators do not conform to the normal distribution.

4 Add new testing items and new indicators, design and manufacture a large number of new instruments

         With the gradual deepening of the understanding of the performance of textile materials, the level of performance testing of textile materials has been continuously improved, and the development of other scientific fields such as sensor technology and information software processing technology has led to the development of inspection content. For example, the cotton viscous test has been developed. As the large-capacity rapid test system (HVI) has gradually been recognized by international textile companies, it has developed rapidly and changed the traditional method of raw cotton evaluation, so that the raw cotton has a packet-by-package process performance data parameter. Possibly, China has already prepared to use the inspection system, and textile instruments companies have cooperated with research institutes and universities to develop such instruments.

       As consumers demand higher quality of textiles, the content of quality assessment in textile standards has increased. It can be said that many of the original standards of China's textiles are products of the planned economy. The research and formulation of standards have certain one-sidedness and protection, failing to fully consider the social consumption requirements of products, or the formulation of these standards is subject to technical conditions. Restrictions, failing to consider the changes in the supply and demand of the entire society, especially the consumer rights, with the development of the market economy, not only in the law, but also in the ideological field of the whole society, the quality assurance content system is affirmed. Will add more content. Such as pilling performance, hooking performance, crease performance, arching performance, hygienic performance, even fabric comfort, fabric feel will become a guarantee for manufacturers to provide consumers.

         With the development of textile technology, many new textile raw materials and various functional textile products have emerged. New fibers such as soy protein modified fiber (days), polylactic acid fiber, chitosan (chitin fiber), polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (PTT), Lyocell fiber (Tennis), conductive fiber ( Including metal fiber, conductive polymer, composite conductive fiber), flame retardant fiber, elastic fiber, anti-ultraviolet fiber, infrared fiber, moisture absorbing heat release fiber, moisture-cooling and quick-drying cool fiber, multiple poly-multi-composite fiber, etc., have begun As the choice of new fashion fabrics. In addition to the emphasis on color popular styles, functionalization is also pursued as a fashion by consumers. Fabric fabrics with certain functions are currently the focus of textile manufacturers, such as anti-electromagnetic shielding fabrics, antistatic fabrics, flame retardant fabrics, Anti-UV fabric, antibacterial fabric, wind and rain and snow resistant fabric, moisture wicking and cool fabric. Whether it is a new type of fiber or a functional fabric, it is necessary to add corresponding inspection items, and even need to study new inspection techniques and inspection contents.

         The impact of environmental pollution on human health and survival has aroused people's attention to environmental protection. Protecting the environment has become an important criterion for product development, production and use, and also a necessary condition for products to enter the market. All countries have strengthened the testing standards for determining the possibility of environmental pollution, especially the EU, Japan, the United States and other countries have developed strict textile ecological standards to improve the import conditions of textiles. For example, the "Ecological Textile Standard 100" promulgated by the International Textile Ecology Research and Testing Association under the European Union stipulates 10 aspects of textile PH value, formaldehyde, extractable heavy metals, pesticide residues, banned dyes, and organic chlorine carriers. The above national textiles must be tested by ecological standards.

          According to the relevant rules of the World Trade Organization, trade quota barriers between member states will be gradually eliminated, tariff barriers will be gradually reduced, and technical barriers will become measures for trade protection of various countries. Increasing the inspection content of commodities has become an important means. The inspection of textiles not only increases the content, but also the requirements of the order of magnitude. The recent rejection of some products exported by China to the EU and Japan is a problem in this regard. Therefore, Chinese textile manufacturers should pay sufficient attention to this issue. China's inspection and quarantine departments, standards management and formulation departments should adopt a flexible approach to the formulation of standards, and formulate and revise them in a timely manner according to actual conditions, rather than on a regular basis to adapt the standards to the development of the market economy. In addition, the state should strongly support the inspection technology. The research work has promoted the progress of China's inspection technology level and is at the international advanced level in order to play a role in the formulation and revision of international standards and to take the initiative.

5 Establish a quality assurance system based on product quality law, combining standards and contract quality commitments

        The Product Quality Act is a legal document and is a benchmark that must be adhered to in standards and contract quality commitments. The standard is a unified specification of technology, and the contract quality commitment is the agreement of both parties to the contract. For a long time, under the conditions of planned economy, China has simplified the handling of quality problems, and used the standard as the sole basis for quality assurance, ignoring the relationship between product quality law, standards and contract quality commitments, so as to formulate product standards. Caused by insufficient consideration. The development trend of China's market economy development on product quality norms is that enterprises should re-recognize the relationship between product quality law, standards and contract quality commitments.

         Regarding the relationship between standards and contract quality commitments, the previous practice is that foreign trade transactions are mainly based on contract quality commitments, and domestic trade transactions adopt standards (currently many textile companies in China still use this method). This method can be adapted in the period when China's commodity economy is underdeveloped and the number of commodities is small. With the development of the commodity economy, especially now that the market has entered a popular market for new varieties, many new fibers, new yarns, and new fabrics appear every year. From this point of view, the standard has the limitations of hysteresis and scope of adaptation. When formulating standards, only a minimum requirement is required for some products that have been mass-produced and tested in the laboratory, such as appearance and durability. Many new products, which product standard to use, may be difficult to solve. In addition, for various reasons, the development of standards will probably become more and more difficult. To solve such problems, it is necessary to adopt a combination of standards and contract quality commitments. The standard will set a minimum requirement for the products to be sold according to the product category. As for the classification of industrial products, further research is needed.

         China's textile testing technology research units and instrument manufacturers must also change their concepts. They should not stay in the R&D and production only by standard requirements. They should actively innovate, according to the various requirements and objectives put forward in the use of final products and The examination requirements for textiles, yarns, fibers and semi-finished products, research and testing of the original exhibition, especially now that the market has entered a new variety of popular markets, there are many new fibers, new yarns, new fabrics appear every year. From this point of view, the standard has the limitations of hysteresis and scope of adaptation. When formulating standards, only a minimum requirement is required for some products that have been mass-produced and tested in the laboratory, such as appearance and durability. Many new products, which product standard to use, may be difficult to solve. In addition, for various reasons, the development of standards will probably become more and more difficult. To solve such problems, it is necessary to adopt a combination of standards and contract quality commitments. The standard will set a minimum requirement for the products to be sold according to the product category. As for the classification of industrial products, further research is needed.

         China's textile testing technology research units and instrument manufacturers must also change their concepts. They should not stay in the R&D and production only by standard requirements. They should actively innovate, according to the various requirements and objectives put forward in the use of final products and The examination requirements for textiles, yarns, fibers and semi-finished products, research on the principle of detection, the prototype of the research instrument (prototype), the test results of the test instruments, the introduction of new indicators, and the actual improvement of textile product quality and feedback processing information Effective work.